Curious Case of Buttons on Pea coats (2024)

As a piece of clothing Pea coat is a woolen double-breasted short overcoat. This outwear appeared in the British naval forces in the middle of the 19th century. Two decades later Pea coat became an indispensable accessory of American sailors’ military outfit.

Buttons on classic Pea coat

Classic version of a Pea coat had eight buttons, four on each side. The American version had an anchor and thirteen stars symbolizing the first American colonies. And in the Russian navy jackets had only anchors, as Russia never had colonies.

Curious Case of Buttons on Pea coats (1)

The buttons were made of wood or light metal. They were big and round. Their peculiarity was that they were flat in order to prevent them from getting stuck in ship’s rigging: the many ropes, the details of superstructures.

After the 2nd World War the number of buttons decreased to become six.

At first, Pea coat was used as comfortable working clothing, no pretending whatsoever to be stylish and fashionable. It was easy and comfortable to work in it on the ship. Wide collar protected safely from severe sea winds.

Curious Case of Buttons on Pea coats (2)

The collar could be buttoned completely with the upper button. The thing about Pea coat was that all of its buttons were functional. Both breasts could be buttoned depending on the direction of wind. That’s why the second row of buttons was sewn not for beauty of symmetry, but in order to make the naval outwear more comfortable and functional.

Curious Case of Buttons on Pea coats (3)

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At certain fleets buttons of Pea coat had not only the picture of an anchor, but of an anchor with ropes wrapped around. The picture was applied through stamping. In modern jackets the buttons are made of different metals, including gold, and anchors are engraved.

Button as an important style element

Buttons for the modern fashion followers is a special thing to take pride in. They may be bespoke, of different sizes and designs. Nowadays they serve not only to button up multifunctional stylish clothes, but are also a designer decoration.

Curious Case of Buttons on Pea coats (2024)

FAQs

How many buttons should you button on a peacoat? ›

On double-breasted peacoats, should I button all the buttons or leave the bottom one undone as I would for a three-button suit? Peacoats look best buttoned up; they're more shipshape. Let me cite navy regs: "Button all buttons except collar button. Collar button may be buttoned in inclement weather.

Why do peacoats have two sets of buttons? ›

The thing about Pea coat was that all of its buttons were functional. Both breasts could be buttoned depending on the direction of wind. That's why the second row of buttons was sewn not for beauty of symmetry, but in order to make the naval outwear more comfortable and functional.

What is a jigger button? ›

Jigger, the inner button of a double-breasted coat or jacket. Jigger, an obsolete golf club that was a very low lofted iron with a shortened shaft.

How to sew a button on a peacoat? ›

Lay a toothpick across the button. Stitch as with light fabrics but go over the toothpick. For the last stitch, pull the needle down through one hole but not the fabric. Remove the toothpick; pull the button up.

What is the rule for jacket buttons? ›

The top button is all you need. The two-button jacket should never be buttoned completely. The three-button suit, like others, comes with a simple rule: "sometimes, always, never." This means you should sometimes fasten the top button (if you want to), always fasten the middle button, and never fasten the bottom.

Does the navy still issue pea coats? ›

While sailors will no longer be issued the peacoat, they can still buy them, and the Navy is keeping the pijjakker as an optional clothing item.

Why do they call it a peacoat? ›

The pea coat was originally used as a military piece of clothing, more specifically for the navy. The Dutch navy created the pea coat in the 1800s as part of the navy uniform, and that is where the name originates from - “pije” means coarse wool in Dutch, the fabric used to make the pea coat.

Are pea coats outdated? ›

Pea coats are definitely in style, so get yourself one that you like the most!

What is the difference between a peacoat and an overcoat? ›

Peacoat: Lighter fabric that keeps you warm – but not to the extent of an overcoat. These are only available as a double-breasted coat, and are typically only available in navy color. Unlike the overcoat, these don't go well with a suit or blazer as they are designed to fit much slimmer.

Can a woman wear a double-breasted jacket open? ›

Men have always be taught that double breasted must always be worn closed but as women like everything else we love to break free of masculine constraints.

What is a chigger jigger? ›

(also chigoe flea, uk/ˈtʃɪɡ.əʊ/); (also jigger, us/-ɚ/ uk. /ˈdʒɪɡ.ər/) a type of flea (= very small jumping insect) that lays eggs beneath an animal's or person's skin.

Can you wear a peacoat unbuttoned? ›

Whatever number your coat has, they're designed to be buttoned up; the pea coat looks best worn closed rather than open. The exception is the bottom button, which should, just like on a suit jacket, be left unbuttoned so that the coat can hang properly.

How many buttons should I leave unbuttoned on a jacket? ›

A double-breasted suit jacket should always be done up, with very few exceptions. The rule here is to button all the working buttons on your jacket. If you do need to leave some undone, you should leave the bottom buttons undone.

How many buttons do you button on a trench coat? ›

As you probably guessed, this rule is primarily for 3 button jackets. You can start by fastening the top button “Sometimes” as a personal preference when the middle button is also fastened. The second or middle button should “Always” be fastened, and the last or bottom button should always remain open.

How many cuff buttons on a jacket? ›

Traditionally, a suit jacket has had four sleeve buttons. This dates back to the Victorian era when jackets were often tailored with this number of buttons. Four buttons provide a classic and timeless look, and they are still widely used in modern suits. Four buttons are often considered a safe and conservative choice.

Can you wear a pea coat unbuttoned? ›

Wear it loose to avoid making the neckline look bulky - let the collar of the pea coat be the star. You can show it off by unbuttoning your pea coat, and if you are freezing you can turn the collar up. Though the design of the pea coat has changed, the styling rules have remained the same over the years.

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