Make Ahead
by: Hannah Kirshner
October5,2021
3
5 Ratings
- Prep time 10 minutes
- Cook time 10 minutes
- Makes About 1 cup
Jump to Recipe
Author Notes
There are several reasons that chefs, and seemingly every person in Japan, are obsessed with Kewpie mayonnaise and its brethren: It comes in a soft-squeeze bottle with a fine tip for zigzagging artfully across okonomiyaki, a bowl of rice, or an oversized fine-dining plate. It’s tangy, rich, and salty-sweet. And it’s packed with umami (not to mention fat).
That irresistible umami flavor is due to a lot of MSG, and gums and fillers help with the perfectly creamy texture. A homemade version will never be exactly like one off the shelf, but just like Hellmann's has its roots in a humble homemade sauce, so does Kewpie.
So what differentiates Japanese mayo, even in its humbler homemade incarnation? It uses only egg yolks as opposed to whole eggs (which commercial American mayo uses). The oil is a neutral-flavored one, such as canola—never olive oil like you might use for aioli. And instead of lemon juice for tang, it relies on vinegar. It’s a little sweet, too, but never as cloying as Miracle Whip.
I wanted to give you a recipe that won't require a trip to a specialty market or mail-ordering obscure ingredients. I do suggest using dashi to add umami without MSG (which, though not necessarily harmful, I consider cheating)—but you can omit it and still have a great mayonnaise. (Nancy Singleton Hachisu—whose books you should buy if you want to learn Japanese home-cooking—has a recipe for a version that’s as simple as egg yolk, oil, rice vinegar, and a touch of salt and sugar.)
To concentrate the tang and umami in my recipe without thinning out the mayonnaise too much, I cook down the vinegar and dashi. It only takes a few minutes and makes all the difference between ordinary and fantastic mayo! You might instinctively reach for rice wine vinegar when making Japanese food, but cider vinegar gets you closer to the taste of Kewpie.
Here’s a recipe that gets damn close to Kewpie, using simple home-cooking ingredients. Put this in a squeeze bottle and you’re ready to go!
Helpful tools for this recipe:
- Pewter Measuring Spoons
- Five Two Essential Saucepan
- Silicone Grip Whisk
—Hannah Kirshner
- Test Kitchen-Approved
What You'll Need
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoonsplus 1 teaspoon cider vinegar
- 2 tablespoonsdashi, homemade or instant (optional)
- 1 large egg yolk
- 1 teaspoonDijon mustard
- 3/4 cupcanola oil
- 1/2 teaspoonsugar
- 1 teaspoonkosher salt
Directions
- In a small saucepan over high heat, bring the cider vinegar and dashi, if using, to a simmer (if you aren't using dashi, just simmer the vinegar). Cook, adjusting the heat to keep it simmering, not boiling, for 3 to 5 minutes, until reduced to about 1 tablespoon.
- Transfer the vinegar-dashi concentrate to a small bowl. Form a ring with a damp dish towel to rest your bowl on—this will keep it stable. Add the egg yolk and mustard and whisk to combine.
- Whisking constantly, very gradually drip in the oil down the side of the bowl into the yolk mixture. The mixture should emulsify and thicken.* You can drizzle a bit more quickly once the mixture is very thick.
- When all the oil has been incorporated, mix in the sugar and salt. You can add a little dashi or water to thin the mayonnaise so it will easily flow from a squeeze bottle but still hold its shape. It will thicken slightly once refrigerated. Transfer the mayo to a squeeze bottle. Refrigerate and use within 1 week.
- *If at any point the mixture breaks and separates instead of getting thick and creamy, don’t despair. Put a fresh egg yolk in a bowl and slowly whisk the broken mixture into it, as if it were the oil.
Tags:
- Condiment/Spread
- Sauce
- Japanese
- Vinegar
- Egg
- Mustard
- Make Ahead
- Simmer
- Snack
- Lunch
See what other Food52ers are saying.
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Rosalind Martinez
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Chef Devaux
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Sydney
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Hannah Kirshner isauthor of Water, Wood, and Wild Things.She is a writer, artist, and food stylist whose work has appeared in The New York Times, Vogue, Saveur, Taste, Food52, Roads & Kingdoms, and Atlas Obscura, among others. Trained at the Rhode Island School of Design, Kirshner grew up on a small farm outside Seattle and divides her time between Brooklyn and rural Japan.
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6 Reviews
Sydney May 29, 2020
Mine was not coming together with a whisk so I used a hand immersion blender instead and it worked great!
Rosalind M. December 29, 2019
From another Kewpie description: "Japanese mayonnaise relies on either apple cider or rice vinegar for a more subdued, sweeter tang."
Thank you for your posted recipe😃
John J. March 2, 2019
As soon as I saw cider vinegar instead of rice vinegar I instantly knew you have no clue about kewpie mayo. Do some research next time dumb ass.
Steven W. January 23, 2022
"A homemade version will never be exactly like one off the shelf,..." and then "I wanted to give you a recipe that won't require a trip to a specialty market or mail-ordering obscure ingredients."
Seems you neglected to read or maybe comprehend those two parts of the article, no? Aside from the insult, which I hope gets you banned, maybe try reading the whole article.
rockymtnneighbor July 23, 2016
This was a bit heavy on the salt for me (or maybe I reduced the vinegar/dashi too much) but the flavors are pretty close to what I remember kewpie mayo to taste like! Mine also came out more of a light-brown color (but again, probably reduced the vinegar/dashi too much).
Chef D. December 22, 2015
I love kewpie mayo! I also happen to have made a home made recipe for kewpie, see mine here: http://www.makesushi.com/kewpie-mayonnaise-recipe/ :)
