Dining Out 4 minutes 03 August 2023
We speak to five Hungarian chefs about the origins and importance of this distinctive ingredient, and its influence on the country’s gastronomy
Hungary 2022 Ingredients Paprika Chef Interview Editor's Pick
Paprika – made from dried and ground pepper and chilli plants – is synonymous with Hungarian cuisine. It forms the basis of many of the country’s dishes including soups, sauces, casseroles and stews, and is a key ingredient in traditional Hungarian fare such as goulash and paprikash. But there isn’t one single type of paprika; there are in fact eight distinct grades, ranging from mild to pungent, spicy and even sweet. Each variety imparts a distinct colour, flavour and fragrance when added to dishes, as we discovered from some of Hungary’s top chefs.
The Backbone of Hungarian Cuisine
“Paprika is a spice powder made from drying and grinding the pods of different types of peppers,” explains Dániel Katona, Executive Chef at Budapest’s , located on the banks of the Danube. “It’s an essential ingredient in Hungarian cuisine and it gives many dishes their brilliant, orange-red colour and intense, peppery flavour and aroma. Paprika can be sweet, hot and even smoked – and it comes in different grades of coarseness and colour.”
At FELIX, paprika is used in two key dishes, one being venison goulash (gulyás), a type of soup comprising venison, paprika, onions, potatoes and vegetables such as carrot and celery. Here, the team uses édesnemes paprika, also known as ‘noble sweet’. It’s bright red, with a slight pungency. FELIX’s other speciality is catfish paprikash. This also uses édesnemes and consists of catfish cooked in a creamy paprika and crème fraîche sauce, served with cottage cheese, durum wheat pasta, fresh dill and dill oil. “Paprika is the backbone of Hungarian cuisine” adds Dániel, “and paprikash has been the Hungarian national dish for two centuries”.
Variety Is the Spice of Life
“The use of paprika as a spice significantly transformed Hungarian cuisine,” agrees Ádám Barna, chef-owner of Esztergom-based restaurant, 42. “When we use paprika, it’s often very prominent and determines the taste and character of the dish.” Ádám and the team use paprika sourced from Hungary’s Bács-Kiskun county, in southern Hungary, where these thirsty plants thrive on the nutrient-rich soil close to the Danube.
At 42, paprika is used in a variety of dishes, ranging from savoury to sweet. To kick things off, paprika is introduced in the form of an amuse-bouche, alongside sour cream. “Then, for our lecsó (a Hungarian version of ratatouille), we use several types of peppers prepared with different methods to give a more layered, complex flavour. We use Hungarian wax pepper, capia pepper and hot green peppers. We also employ three different ways of preparation: we roast them in their skins in the oven; fry them in duck fat in an iron pan and mince them raw for the sauce,” says Ádám.
With so many varieties of paprika available, how does the team determine its quality? “Good quality paprika tends to be ruby-red in colour, with a roasted and slightly caramelised aroma and a nice fruitiness,” explains Ádám. “The paprika will be fine to the touch and, depending on the processing method, may have a floury texture.”
Ádám and the team carefully choose the best paprika – and cooking technique – for each dish. “The best paprika for making lecsó is the Hungarian wax pepper, while for goulash and fish soup, we use ground paprika. For barbecuing, one of the best types of paprika is the capia pepper – because of its high sugar content, it caramelises nicely when grilled. For pickling, the late summer tomato peppers have a very nice, sweet flavour. A sharp, green pepper also goes well with csabai sausage and sourdough bread.”
At 42, this versatility also extends to sweeter items on the menu. “We even use paprika in our chocolate truffles!" says Ádám. "The roasted paprika adds body as well as a depth of flavour.”
Layers of Flavour
To really understand paprika and its influence on Hungarian cuisine, it’s important to be familiar with some of the key varieties. “Édesnemes (noble sweet) is the most commonly used paprika in Hungarian cooking,” explains chef-owner Dávid Pallag from Rutin in Budaörs. “It has a rich, sweet flavour and is bright red in colour. Csemege paprika is slightly milder but still adds a sweet and fruity taste to dishes. Csípősmentes csemege (delicate) offers the same fruity flavour as csemege but without the heat, while csípős (hot) paprika has a moderate level of spiciness and is often used to add a gentle kick to dishes.
“Rozsdás (rusty) is deep-red in colour and has a more pronounced, smoky flavour while erős (strong) is significantly hotter than csípős, and its intense spiciness is favoured by those who enjoy fiery flavours. Félédes (semi-sweet) offers a balance between sweet and spicy flavours, making it a versatile option in Hungarian cooking, while rózsa (rose) has a distinctive aroma and a milder taste, and is commonly used as a finishing touch in dishes.”
At Rutin, different types of paprika are used depending on the dish being prepared. “The édesnemes and csemege varieties are often used in soups, stews and meat dishes to provide a sweet and flavourful base, while we incorporate the csípős and erős paprika in spicier dishes, such as goulash or paprikash, to add a fiery kick,” David says.
Homegrown Produce
“Paprika is so characteristic of Hungarian cuisine that people from other countries often typify Hungarian dishes with its excessive use,” says Ádám Mede, Executive Chef at Laurel in Budapest. But that’s not the case for Laurel, where paprika is the key ingredient in one dish in particular.
“We use paprika as the foundational spice for our signature dish, catfish paprikash (harcsapaprikás),” explains Ádám. “Its distinctive flavor is achieved by combining several types of Hungarian paprika, including csemege (mild), csípős csemege (spicy mild), and a mixed paprika blend.
“Additionally, we incorporate hot smoked paprika. While smoked paprika is not traditionally common in Hungarian cuisine, its smokiness pairs exceptionally well with our harcsapaprikás dish, and the smoky flavour naturally infuses into the dish as we cook it in a cauldron (bogrács). Upon special request, our supplier creates a unique hot smoked paprika for us, which uses hawthorn wood instead of the more common acacia or beechwood for smoking. This creates a more pleasant aroma with a fruitier flavour profile but without the bitter aftertaste, and it complements our catfish stew perfectly.”
Like the team at 42, Laurel uses Fajszi Paprika as their suppliers. “We’ve used Fajszi Paprika from the beginning. They are a family-run farm in Fajsz. The proximity of the Danube River ensures that their growing area has fertile soil and a favourable microclimate, creating excellent quality paprika.”
Perfect Pairings
“The presence of paprika reminds me of the flavours of home and the way we cooked when I was a child,” reminisces chef Endre Kollár of Budapest’s St. Andrea. “For me, working in the fine dining sector, our task is to show the playfulness that Hungarian paprika can bring to a dish. Due to its smokiness, lively colour and the surprising fresh or even spicy taste of some varieties, paprika is a wonderful ingredient that’s deeply rooted in the traditions of Hungarian gastronomy.”
At St. Andrea, paprika is used primarily in the preparation of their game dishes. “On our winter menu, you’ll find wild stew with mushrooms, blueberries and homemade tarragon. Paprika brings unmistakable colour and depth to this dish. We also like to work with Szeged (sweet) paprika, because it brings a beautiful deep-red colour around our venison, reminiscent of the colours of the autumn forest.”
Endre and his team at St. Andrea use a number of varieties of paprika including ground paprika, hot pepper, cherry and capsicum. “We also work with paprika oil, which is made by cold-pressing the seeds of hot peppers. It really enhances the flavour of dishes,” says Endre.
“We also have an internationally-recognised winery, and we’ve found dishes that contain paprika go well with St. Andrea's popular Bikavér-type wines. The fruity finish of, for example, the Szeged paprika works in beautiful harmony with the deep, saturated, fruity flavour of the red wines. It’s this harmony of flavours that’s key for us when planning our menus.”
Related Articles:
Hungary's First 2 Michelin Star Restaurants
Hungary's First Green Star Restaurants
Hungary’s First Michelin Special Award Winners
Meet Hungary's Top Female Chefs
Hungary: Where To Stay and Where To Eat Nearby
Fusion Cuisine in Hungary’s Dining Scene
Why Hungary's Mangalitsa Pork Is Revered Worldwide
Related Videos:
Take a Look Inside Hungary's New Two Star Restaurants
Wine and Dine Waterside at Hungary's Lake Balaton
Dine With a View of the Vines at Sauska 48
A Secret Oasis in the Heart of Bustling Szeged
Written by The MICHELIN Guide UK Editorial Team
Dining Out
Dining Out 7 minutes
Restaurant Farina – French sun and Polish flavours
By opening her restaurant, Farina, chef Monika Turasiewicz decided to bring to Kraków what had enchanted her most in France – the bright lightness of the cuisine from the country’s Southern climes and its exquisite seafood. With her gentle preparations of ingredients, she delivers the concept entirely in her own personal way.
Michelin Guide Poland 2023 Seafood
Dining Out 8 minutes
The Zagreb Festival of Lights and the Beštija restaurant
A lively, authentic restaurant that enthrals guests with its creative dishes prepared with fresh ingredients sourced from the neighbouring Dolac Market.
Bib Gourmand Michelin Guide Croatia
Dining Out 4 minutes
The Slovenian green country: the wonder of excellence on the table
To discover the green soul of Slovenia you need to go through it, travel its roads, coast its sea and walk over its mountains.
Editor's Pick Michelin Guide Slovenia
Dining Out 2 minutes
Penny Is the Seafood Restaurant New Yorkers Have Always Wanted
For their sophom*ore project, the Claud team ace the ocean.
Editor's Pick NYC NYC restaurants
All articles of Dining Out
Keep Exploring - Stories we think you will enjoy reading
Travel 6 minutes
Hackney: London's Hipster Paradise
Discover the best and trendiest places to eat and stay in Hackney, Shoreditch and beyond
Hotels Editor's Pick Travel
MICHELIN Guide Ceremony 6 minutes
2 New Three Star Restaurants in The MICHELIN Guide Nordic Countries 2024
Discover all the winners from Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden
Editor's Pick Nordic Countries 2024 Michelin Stars
Travel 1 minute
Where Daniel Boulud Goes In New York
The chef who has made Manhattan home for more than three decades spills on where he eats, drinks, and enjoys the city.
NYC Chef Interview Editor's Pick
MICHELIN Guide Ceremony 6 minutes
New MICHELIN Star Restaurants Shine in The MICHELIN Guide Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo 2024 Selection
With 3 new Two Star restaurants and 7 new One Star restaurants, the 2024 MICHELIN Guide makes a bright relaunch in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo.
Editor's Pick Brazil MICHELIN Guide Ceremony
3 minutes
All the Winners in The MICHELIN Guide Estonia 2024!
Find out what the Michelin Inspectors love about the new selection and which restaurant is awarded a Green Star
Green Star Editor's Pick Launch Event
Travel 4 minutes
2 Days in Bangkok for Street Food Lovers
All the best places to eat in Bangkok without the pomp and circ*mstance of high-end dining. Plus the best spots to base yourself for an unforgettable street food adventure.
2 Days in: Street Food Editor's Pick
Travel 4 minutes
2 Days in Ko Samui
48 hours in Ko Samui and you’ll never want to leave.
Thailand Editor's Pick Travel
Travel 1 minute
A Long Weekend in Tartu
Designated a City of Culture for 2024, here's why you should visit Estonia's second city this year
Editor's Pick Estonia 2023 Travel
Travel 3 minutes
2 Days in Hanoi
Experience the "City of Lakes" with our 48-hour guide covering restaurants, hotels, and more.
Editor's Pick 2 Days in: Vietnam
MICHELIN Guide Ceremony 9 minutes
All The Stars From The MICHELIN Guide Mexico 2024
2 Two Stars, 16 One Stars, and 6 Green Stars fill out the MICHELIN Guide Mexico 2024.
MICHELIN Guide Ceremony Michelin Star Revelation Mexico
MICHELIN Guide Ceremony 17 minutes
2024 Mexico MICHELIN Bib Gourmands
From fusion to seafood, these Bib Gourmands are filled with value and flavor.
MICHELIN Guide Ceremony Editor's Pick Mexico
Travel 1 minute
Thomas Keller Talks 20 Years of Per Se and His New York
The chef behind the Three MICHELIN Star staple shares his love of Manhattan.
New York Editor's Pick NYC restaurants
MICHELIN Guide Ceremony 2 minutes
85 restaurants shine within the 2024 restaurant selection of the MICHELIN Guide Nara
Restaurant le content is newly awarded the Bib Gourmand and 5 establishments are newly joining the selection. 22 restaurants maintained their MICHELIN Stars for outstanding culinary proposals.
Editor's Pick Japan Michelin Stars
- MICHELIN Guide
- Magazine
- Dining Out
- Paprika: Why This Smoky Spice Plays a Crucial Role in Hungarian Cuisine
