Why Did Men Stop Wearing Waistcoats (Vests)? | Gentleman's Gazette (2024)

As advocates of classic style, we think that a waistcoat (or vest) boosts the style of a suit and creates a more complete look. But while the vest was a menswear mainstay from 1666 through the mid-20th century, its popularity has diminished significantly since the 1960s or so. But why? Read on to find out!

What is a Waistcoat, Anyway?

Just in case you need a refresher, the waistcoat is a garment worn on the torso that is typically fitted closely to the body. It typically closes with buttons, and it can be either single or double-breasted in configuration, though some models have three columns of buttons and are called “triple-breasted.” Though, these are really just historical curiosities for the most part.

It has no sleeves and stops at the wearer’s waist, hence its name, and you may sometimes see the term “weskit,” which is a corruption of the word “waistcoat.” It’s also commonly called a “vest,” but more on that in just a moment. Other typical features include a back panel in a smoother fabric like silk or rayon and a cinch belt to tighten things at the back of the waist.

History of Vests & Waistcoats

The history of waistcoats in Western fashion begins in the 1660s with Charles II and the vest. After such historic disasters as the Great Plague and the Great Fire of London, and as you might well imagine, people weren’t necessarily in such high spirits. And so, the method of dressing loudly and flamboyantly, as the upper classes had been doing around this time, was starting to tick a lot of the common folk off.

Essentially, people were pretty sick of seeing the extravagant French styles in the upper class and the Royal Court. So, it was decided that men should wear clothing that was more appropriate to the mood of the era and, thus, had a more sober formal appearance.

Consequently, the vest, which was actually borrowed from Persian culture, would be worn across the midsection of the body to cover it in a flat sober color. This would replace the copious amounts of luxurious lace and muslin featured on shirts of that time, which were used to flaunt wealth.

The idea of the vest in England actually came from a similar item worn in the court of Emperor Shah Abbas when details of the fashions worn there were brought back to England by writer John Evelyn after his travels in 1666.

King Charles II had only recently been restored as England’s monarch, and there were already accusations that the English throne was being controlled by the French. So, the king was keen to distance himself from the flamboyance of the French courts and look more independently English in his dress.

To do this, His Majesty decreed that the vest garment Evelyn had described would be instituted as proper court dress in England. Samuel Pepys wrote down the King’s Royal Proclamation to his council in his famous diary on the 7th of October 1666, saying, “The King hath yesterday in council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter. It will be a vest.”

The Evolution of The Waistcoat

The vest styles worn in 1666 aren’t the same styles we know today. First of all, they were quite long, worn almost down to the knee and nearly as long as the coats that covered them. Some were sleeveless, while others did have sleeves. And if you think modern waistcoats today have too many buttons, wait until you try to get one of these on!

However, these vests ushered in the more sober style of independent English dress, which was also seen as more masculine overall. The Secret Treaty of Dover was signed by both England and France in 1670, which led to a closer and more cooperative relationship between the countries and saw vests worn in England and France.

By the 18th century, the vest had taken much of Europe by storm, but it was already starting to be worn with more ornate details and bright colors. As with most things related to clothing, it was already beginning to change over time, and another of these changes is that it was shortened.

By the 1710s, heavily decorated vests sat around the thigh. In the Regency Era, the collar stood up around the neck. And by the 1810s, the vest had shortened further and was now sitting around the hips. The waistcoat’s collar was also shorter and was now sitting around the neck in a v-shape.

In the early to mid-19th century, the vest began to take on a form similar to what we know today as the length was now sitting around the waist, and the pockets had become smaller and more subtle.

By the 1860s, the ‘ditto’ sack suit was popular, and three-piece ‘ditto’ suits were all the rage. They even look roughly similar to the three-piece suits of today.

By the 1890s, British writers, journalists, fashion critics, and tailoring manuals began to favor the word “waistcoat” over “vest.” After all, it better described the waist-length garment that had emerged over the previous centuries. Unsurprisingly though, Americans still favored the word “vest,” which is why we still have that linguistic difference today.

So, whatever you’d like to call it, the waistcoat continued to be worn well into the mid-20th century, with the 1930s representing its highest possible waistline. So, the vest or waistcoat was obviously a very popular item, as you can see with its longevity over the centuries.

What Happened To Waistcoat Wearing?

Since King Charles II introduced them in 1666 and up to today, we can see men wearing waistcoats. They’re an invaluable piece of menswear that keeps one looking smart and put together and provides extra pockets if you need to carry more items.

The waistcoat continued to be a mainstay in men’s wardrobes into the 1940s. But, at this point, their popularity began to wane and has been on the wane ever since. So, what happened?

When we look back at history, it may be obvious that we were heading for this. After all, when we look at Edwardian clothing through the lens of today, we find it to be incredibly ornate and flamboyant. But, compared to the even more ornate fashions of the 1600s, it could be said to be quite dull.

Unsurprisingly then, to take a holistic view of all of these centuries of development, it’s easy to see that menswear has simply been getting more casual over time. As such, it can seem inevitable that clothing items like hats and waistcoats would decline in usage.

We’ve already covered why it is that men, by and large, stopped wearing hats. And now, we’ll dive into the reasons why the same might be true for waistcoats.

5 Reasons Why Vests Fell Out Of Popularity: 1. Eyewear

Particularly in the mid-19th century, eyewear had a relatively significant role in the appeal of the waistcoat. Before this time, eyewear such as quizzing glasses, lorgnettes, the pince-nez, and monocles were all typically hung by lanyards.

Quizzing glasses and lorgnettes were held up to the face when being used, whereas monocles and pince-nez sit directly on the face. None of these styles are attached to the ears, though. So, for extra security and to prevent loss, they were often kept on lanyards and were tucked into the upper pockets of the waistcoat.

Whether connected with lanyards of string, silk ribbons, or dedicated eyewear chains, the top pockets of waistcoats were the most common places to keep eyewear, and, as such, waistcoats typically had one or sometimes even two breast pockets. If you had two pockets, you could keep your eyewear in one, and a pencil or other accessory in the other.

However, as styles changed and more and more men began wearing spectacles in the mid-20th century, these two breast pockets were increasingly obsolete and began being left off of many waistcoats. As such, this element of the waistcoat’s utility was fading away.

It could, of course, still be used to keep warm and keep your pocket watch in, but neither of these would necessarily last all that long either.

2. Wristwatches

During and after the first World War, wristwatches became increasingly popular with men as they were a hands-free timekeeping option. Prior to this, though, the pocket watch was the dominant timepiece and, similarly to how eyewear was carried in the two upper pockets of the waistcoat, the pocket watch was carried in the lower pockets.

The watch itself would be kept in one pocket, and the winding key or another accessory would be kept in the other. But, similarly to what happened with eyewear, as wristwatches became more popular, men needed fewer waistcoats because they had fewer pocket watches to keep in them.

Even working men, who couldn’t necessarily afford a new wristwatch, were still going without waistcoats more often, which is why you see a separate small pocket in denim jeans or overalls.

3. Changes In Fashion

cumme*rbunds

When summers get hot, it can be tempting to shed layers or at least cut down on the total amount of fabric worn on one’s body.

So, with another, shall we say, “adoption” from Persian culture, British soldiers stationed in India in the 1850s increasingly took to wearing sashes with their mess uniforms. These sashes, which would come to be called “cumme*rbunds,” eventually made their way into evening dress attire in the 1870s and even into civilian day wear for a time in the 1890s.

As having an uncovered waist was a cultural faux pas of the time, cumme*rbunds were seen as a smart alternative to keep a man’s waist covered while using less fabric to keep cooler.

What does this have to do with waistcoats, then? Simply stated, cumme*rbunds set the precedent that wearing a waistcoat wasn’t always necessary for keeping your waist covered when there were other options available. Even as early as the 1860s, the waistcoat had already lost its status as an essential item.

Belt Loops

Similarly, another fashion that hurt the appeal of waistcoats was the belt. Originally, suspenders or braces were seen as indecent as they made up part of a man’s undergarments, with some styles even attaching directly to the underwear before elastic was commonplace. Because of this, braces were always worn under the waistcoat.

In the American West, though, men were increasingly wearing belts around their waists to hold items like guns or farming or mining tools more efficiently. The work was tough and grueling, so it was a much more casual environment overall where, generally, anything went. Nobody there had the time, money, ability, or desire to wear the more flamboyant fashions of the bigger cities.

These belts were often worn loosely around the waist of trousers that were still being held up by braces or were simply being cinched in. Said trousers were constructed in a fishtail style, and vests could still be worn. But, around the 1890s, belt loops came into fashion, and, thus, belts became the primary way to hold up the trousers, rendering braces obsolete.

The lack of suspenders also meant that one needn’t wear a waistcoat to cover them up. Men were also increasingly finding it unnecessary to hide the waistbands of their trousers, and a belt doesn’t harmonize well with a waistcoat as it can cause unsightly bunching or bulging.

This, of course, is one of the listed items in our post 19 Things Men Should Never Wear, which you’ll find interesting if you’re keen on maintaining a classic style.

Of course, the simple look of trousers held up with a belt still persists to this day. Braces or suspenders are still worn in some circles, of course, but belts are much more common overall.

4. Wartime Fabric Rationing

One thing that can be a real kick in the trousers for any fashion development is government intervention. And during World War II, fabric rationing in Britain, one of the world’s fashion leaders, was very strict. Double-breasted suits were banned, lapels were made narrower, pockets were made less numerous, and, worst of all, turn-ups or cuffs were also banned.

Also, the banning of elastic and zippered flies meant that buttoned flies and braces persisted in Britain. And while waistcoats and knitted vests were worn during this time, following the war, there was an immediate move toward the now-stylish look of double-breasted suits.

While waistcoats had traditionally been worn under double-breasted suits in pre-war times, many men, following the war, began skipping them when wearing a double-breasted jacket as the overlapping fabric would usually cover up most of a waistcoat anyway.

By the time the double-breasted craze came to an end in the late 1950s, the waistcoat had become an optional item for most men and their suits. Also, many people were already beginning to wear more casual fashions in everyday life anyway.

5. Central Heating

In the late 1950s, waistcoats saw a revival as a fashionable item worn by the Teddy Boys, and they were also worn by older and more conservative men. But, as we mentioned, they were no longer a requirement and were simply seen as a stylish choice by this time. As the 1960s also progressed, central heating became cheaper, more widespread, and more modernized.

More and more people were beginning to install central heating units in their homes and offices, which meant that additional layers like knitted vests, waistcoats, and tank tops were no longer essential for keeping warm. At least in terms of practicality and utility, this was probably the final nail in the coffin for the waistcoat.

Vests & Their Place in Menswear Today

That all brings us up to the present day in which many, if not most, men are going to skip a waistcoat when buying a suit as a two-piece suit is now the recognized standard in most places. The waistcoat is still available, of course, but men wearing them today are usually deliberately trying to achieve a classic or just a more unique look.

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Brick Red Pocket Square Art Deco Egyptian Scarab pattern in green, orange, yellow, blue with green contrast edge by Fort Belvedere

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Knit Tie in Solid Rust Orange Silk – Fort Belvedere

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Unfortunately, some modern waistcoats can be found made from synthetic fabrics with overly long lengths that can cause curling or puckering around the hips. With many modern waistcoats being both uncomfortable and unattractive then, this could also be why waistcoats and even suits, in general, are increasingly unpopular today.

As with many things, though, there is an opposite end of this spectrum, with many bespoke tailors today receiving orders from their clients for three-piece suits or even stylish odd waistcoats made from a different fabric.

Of course, waistcoats can still be found as part of the traditional White Tie dress code, and Black Tie can incorporate waistcoats as well.

Conclusion

Naturally, we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette are still big fans of the waistcoat, as we believe they can add a lot to the overall appearance of your suit, making you look more put together and more professional.

Not only do they disguise where your shirt and tie meet your trouser waistband, which can look messy, but they also complement your figure by providing a more slender appearance, disguising any baggy or wrinkled areas on the shirt, as well as preventing it from untucking and holding your tie more firmly in place.

They can also be used creatively as odd waistcoats with a two-piece suit, as we mentioned before or to break up looks even further using the Italian technique of spezzato

So, while there certainly isn’t a need to wear a vest as there was in the 1660s or even as recently as the early 20th century, we still think they have a place in modern menswear. And if you know how to incorporate them in your ensembles, they can look quite stylish.

Outfit Rundown

Today, I am, of course, wearing a waistcoat and it is a natural part of this three-piece charcoal gray suit. The suit features a very subtle pattern and texture in its weave and has notched lapels as does the waistcoat itself. The vest features four buttons. And while it doesn’t have breast pockets, it does have two hip pockets so I’ve got a silver pocket watch inserted into them today.

Fort Belvedere

Navy Socks with Blue and White Clocks in Cotton – Fort Belvedere

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Silver Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls – 925 Sterling Palladium Plated – Fort Belvedere

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Butcher Blue Jacquard Woven Bow Tie with Printed Brown and White Diamonds – Fort Belvedere

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Chocolate Flower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

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Under the suit, I’m wearing a light blue and white Winchester shirt from Brooks Brothers and you can learn more about this two-toned shirt style here. My shoes are black single monk straps featuring silver buckles to harmonize with my pocket watch and other accessories. And speaking of which, other elements I’m wearing today come from Fort Belvedere.

To go with the silver theme, my cufflinks are our platinum-plated sterling silver eagle claw models, featuring blue lapis lazuli as the stone. My socks are in navy blue to pick up on the blue color feel and also feature subtle clock patterns in blue and white. My tie is in a color we’re calling “butcher blue” in jacquard woven silk and it features a pattern of brown and white diamonds.

To pick up on this reddish-brown color tone though, I’ve paired the tie with a vintage silk pocket square in burgundy and light blue featuring a puppy tooth pattern and a relatively new boutonniere designed for our shop, which we’re calling the chocolate flower, which, again, has burgundy and brown tones to it.

And, for all of the Fort Belvedere accessories I’m wearing today, take a look at the Fort Belvedere shop.

Like us, do you have a waistcoat in your wardrobe, and do you believe it can elevate a classic ensemble? We’d love to know your thoughts, so share them in the comments section!